Tetralna Square and The National Opera House

As we make our way back down Volodymyrska Street and across Shevchenko Boulevard, you will see several more buildings associated with the university. The National Academy of Science and the Ministry of Education are both on this street. But our next destination is a little farther and at the next corner.  At the next intersection, on the northeast corner is the  National Opera of Ukraine .

Ukrainian National Opera House - Front

Ukrainian National Opera House – Front

Originally it was called the Kiev City Theater but was re-named after a fire destroyed the original building in 1896. The new building, opened in 1901,  is a wonderful example of Neo-Renaissance architecture and has one of the largest stages in Europe.  If you enjoy either, opera or ballet, I would recommend it. I have seen several productions and all were very well done. You can buy tickets and see schedules at  the National Opera – Home.

Opera House and Tetralna Square

Opera House and Tetralna Square

Adjacent to the National Opera House is Tetralna Square where a statue and monument to Mykola Lysenko  (Ukrainian:  Мико́ла Віта́лійович Ли́сенко) stands. Lysenko is the author of the classic Ukrainian operas – Natalka-Poltavka, Eneida and Taras Bulba.

Mikola Lysenko

Mikola Lysenko

Taras Shevchenko

Taras Shevchenko (Тарас Шевченко) was a Ukrainian writer and artist.  His most famous literary work is a collection of poems entitled ” Kobzar “.  His works are considered to be the foundation of modern Ukrainian literature and, in a large part, the modern Ukrainian language. Wikipedia has a wonderful and detailed look at his life and history. I highly recommend it as a brief introduction to the life of this famous Ukrainian writer / artist.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taras_Shevchenko

I wanted to tell you about Shevchenko because we are going to take a stroll up the street that bears his name – Taras Shevchenko Boulevard.

It seems a little strange to me that Shevchenko Blvd begins with the city’s largest monument to Vladimir Lenin.

Monument to Lenin

Monument to Lenin

 

Shevchenko Blvd Pedestrian Path

Shevchenko Blvd Pedestrian Path

This is a wide street with a sidewalk in the center.  It is lined with trees and has plenty of benches to sit and people-watch or just relax and enjoy the weather.

After a very enjoyable 10 minute walk,  you will find yourself at the intersection of Volodymyrska Street  and on the corner of Taras Shevchenko Park.  In this park you can see the most prominent statue of Shevchenko where it stands facing the huge red building that also bears his name –  Taras Shevchenko University.

Monument to Taras Shevchenko

Monument to Taras Shevchenko

As you can see, when I said red, I mean red.  The walls , columns, and facades are a rich earthy red in color. It is easily, one of the most recognizable buildings found anywhere in Ukraine.  Although the ” Red Building ” is the main building of the university, there are actually 15 academic departments and 5 institutes spread throughout the city.  The university also includes an astronomical observatory and the

Red Building - Taras Shevchenko University

Red Building – Taras Shevchenko University

A.V. Fomin Botanical Garden located behind the main building adjacent to the Universitet metro station. 

A Whole New World

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A whole new world – That’s what you are thinking when you step out on to Kreshchatyk (Крещатик) Street. It doesn’t matter if you came by bus, metro or taxi.. you are immersed in a world that is probably vastly different than what you are used to … and you are right. It is a whole new world.  But it is also strangely familiar.

McD

The street and plaza in front of Kreshchatyk metro station’s doors are full of people.. There are vendors selling their wares, people handing out flyers for almost everything imaginable.. people waiting to put a dove on your shoulders and snap a picture (which they will immediately try and sell you)… There are street musicians playing anything from guitars to bagpipes…. There are human statues..  There are people eating, drinking, laughing, dancing,  or just going about their lives.  It can seem a bit overwhelming but you’ll be fine. So grab your camera and let’s take a walk.

Even though it is only 1.2 km long, Kreshchatyk, is the main street in Kiev. It begins at European Square on the northeast and ends at Besserabtka Square. Nestled in-between is Independence Square, commonly called the Maidan.

European Square

European Square

European Square is home to the Ukrainian House and the National Philharmonic. You will also find the entrance to the Ukrainian/Russian Friendship Arch here.

As you head southwest along the street, you will notice that the buildings are all very similar in appearance.  During WWII, the Red Army planted 100’s and 100’s of explosives in the buildings on both sides of the street. After withdrawing from the city, these explosives were detonated and virtually destroyed every building along the street. It was the first time that explosives were detonated using radio waves. After the re-occupation the buildings were rebuilt in the Stalinist style.

Maidan Nezalezhnosti, literally Independence Square, is the next stop along Kreshchatyk Street.  This is the central square in Kiev and, most commonly called “the Maidan” .Maidan 3 Fountains 1

A monument to the Archangel Michael (spiritual protector of Kiev) can be seen among the fountains on one side of the street. 

Arch Angel Micheal Arch Angel Micheal (close) The large glass domes are skylights to the underground mall Globus. The Cossak Mamy , the goddess Berehynia and  Kyi, Schek, Khory and their sister Lybid, the legendary founders of ancient Kiev are on the other.

Mamy 2 Maidan 3 Founders MaidanThe plaza here is also used for outdoor concerts, political gatherings and protests , and one of the largest New Year’s Eve  parties I have ever attended.

Kreshchatyk Street is also blocked to traffic starting here, every weekend.  I have been told several stories as to why this is done but my favorite is this:

During WWII Kreshchatyk Street is where the women waited for and met their families when they returned from the “front lines”. It was a place to be reunited with loved ones coming home from war. I do not know if that is a true story but this section of the street is always filled with families and couples.

Kreshchatyk Street continues southwest past the main post office and the administrative buildings for the city, the city council building and the central department store until you arrive at Besserabska Square.

Besserabska Square is the home of the Besserabska Rinok. It is a large enclosed market where you can find fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, dried fish and even caviar. It is where farmers from outlying villages came to sell their produce. Kiev’s main monument to Vladimir Lenin is located across the street at the beginning of Taras Shevchenko Boulevard.

Monument to Lenin

Monument to Lenin

 Besserabska Square is also where you can find the entrances to the underground shopping center – Metrograd.

And the journey continues ….

Welcome to Kyiv

So you decided to visit after all… excellent !

Chances are, you will be landing at Kyiv Boryspil Airport (KBP) and if you are coming from somewhere other than Europe, it is almost guaranteed. Boryspil is the largest and most active airport in Ukraine and the only one that handles intercontinental flights. It is located approximately 30 km outside the city.  You can check it out here .. Kyiv Boryspil .. The cheapest way to get from Boryspil to the city is the Skybus. 40 UAH and a comfortable, although not always quick, ride and you will find yourself at the main train station and the Bokzalna metro stop. 

Metro stop at main train station in Kyiv.

Metro stop at main train station in Kyiv.

This is also where you will arrive if you come by train.   After your arrival here, you will be able to go almost anywhere in the city, by metro. The subway system here is convenient, efficient, and inexpensive.  It can be a crowded, especially at peak times, but the trains run every 2 to 5 minutes and only cost 2 uah.  There are also marshrutkas (mini-buses), trams and trolleys for transportation around town.. also efficient and inexpensive.  You can find an interactive map at this site … Transportation Map . A good map for the metro system in Kyiv can be found here … Kyiv Metro Map . This map may very well become your best friend for your adventure in Kyiv.

Some of you will land at International Airport Kyiv, commonly referred to as Zhulyany Airport.  It is located in Kyiv and only a short marshrutka ride from Bokzalna as well. Their site is located here —>  Zhulyany Airport .  I would give instructions about getting to and from this airport, but honestly, the website does a much better job with timetables and routes.

There are also 3 major bus stations in Kyiv.  They offer routes that include all of Ukraine, as well as international destinations. They are also located close to metro stops. The main station at Moskovska Square is a 3 minute walk from Demiivska metro station and the other 2, Pivdenna Bus Station (southwestern routes) and Vydubychi Bus Station (southern routes) are at the Ipodrom metro station.  I am including the Wikipedia link here because the bus station websites are all written in the Russian and Ukrainian languages. Bus Station has alot of useful information.

As I mentioned before, the main train station is located at Bokzalna metro station. Traveling by train in Ukraine is an interesting experience that will definitely be remembered. Unless you are coming from Poland or one of the other neighboring countries, this is not the easiest way to get here but for traveling around the country, it can be interesting and inexpensive.  I use the “night trains” frequently and would recommend it for at least one trip.  You can find more information here … Kyiv Train Station .

Now that you are here … get settled in, rest a bit.. and then, we’ll take a walk and explore what this wonderful city has to offer.Apartment complex

Andrew's Descent

First Steps – A little scary

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Ok.. here we go.. First of all, my name is Steven Liveoak. feel free to call me Steve. It’s what my friends do… Except my Ukrainian and Russian friends. For some reason that I have yet to fathom, it is always Steven. But for the purposes of this (my 1st ever blog post) that is neither here nor there..

I have been an electrician for over 30 years.. In all that time, I have worked in alot of places and done alot of different things but my dream has always been to travel and be a photographer. I have been taking pictures since my first Kodak Instamatic camera when I was 7 or 8 and it has always given me a thrill to see what I shoot printed. To be able to look back at that one split-second moment in time and recall it in every detail is an amazing thing. Even though I have long since “graduated” to SLR’s and, now, DSLR’s the thrill remains the same.

In essence, that is what this will be about.. my travels, my journeys (and occasionally references to others and how they helped me along the path) and the never-ending discoveries along the way.

Essentially, I look for the extraordinary and beautiful in things you can see everyday in every country, in every city, in every culture that I visit. The symmetry and patterns found in the world around us from the iconic (yes, I take those as well) to the hidden or just overlooked.

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So .. with any luck, I will learn and practice and get better at this. I appreciate and comments, both good and bad. Now it is time to get the daily adventure started.